Restaurants »Fette Sau

fette sauMost reviews can't help but remark on the trucker hats and ironic tee shirts (neither of which were actually present when I ate here, nor in the photographs of the restaurant in said reviews, Time Out, I am looking at you) as if such self hating and coolness finger pointing has anything to do with the only thing that matters, the food.

Of course ambience is important, and Fette Sau creates a laid back open space that feels like it has been there forever, if BBQ joints actually looked this deterioratingly elegant forever ago. The walls are decorated with technical beef illustrations and the bar is the kind you wouldn't mind spending a booze hound's amount of time at. You certainly wouldn't mind if you're at all a bourbon connoisseur. The extensive list of bourbons offered is staggering and intriguing, but I have yet to personally indulge.

Other bar perks are the really tasty brews hand made exclusively for the restaurant by Brooklyn's Greenpoint Brewery. But what about the food? Well, I'm happy to say that Fette Sau's pork shoulder alone is worthy of the crowds. And don't think for a moment there won't be crowds. I demanded we get there at 5pm on the dot to snag a table and was glad I did, by the time we finished eating, the line was at least 15 people deep.

Aside from the pork shoulder, the beef and pork ribs were excellent and the spicy sausage was a welcome last minute order choice. The food is served on a platter and works best to share. Three of us were full, but not sickly stuffed with a helping of four menu items and two sides.

Now you BBQ purists and pundits need not tell me that better pulled pork exists. I had it from Mitchell's at the Big Apple Block Party. But in the city, where the fattening delicacy is not so easy to come by, a version this tasty is worth getting happy about.

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Posted on June 25, 2007

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