Restaurants

From the week of March 7th, 2010

Loteria

6627 Hollywood Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA

Amazing Mexican food is suppose to be a dime a dozen in the city of angels, but Loteria Grill, so far, is the most memorable I’ve had. With an appropriate loteria card design motif (Loteria, if your curious as I was is played much like bingo but in a far prettier package), dim flattering lighting, and a menu that makes one drool just to read it, the fairly recently opened restaurant is a pleasant spot in a neighborhood that boasts restaurants of the cheesier kind. Beginning as a beloved counter top at the Farmer’s Market, owner Jimmy Shaw’s now burgeoning empire includes the Hollywood location we ate at as well as a newer Studio City branch.

The meal began with a crazily addictive salsa which I would have loved to bring home a tub of, and progressed with incredible tacos, Jim and I ordered Papa con Rajas (Potatoes with Roasted Poblano Peppers Served with Finely Chopped Onion and Cilantro, Queso Fresco, and Salsa Verde), Nopalitos (Fresh Cactus Salad. Served with Salsa Verde and Queso Fresco), Pollo en Pipian Rojo (Chicken in a Spicy Pumpkin-Seed and Peanut Sauce Served with Finely Chopped Onion), and Carne deshebrada (Shredded Beef Served with Fresh Guacamole, Salsa Chipotle, and Finely Chopped Onion and Cilantro). All were exceptional, the last one was insane. I’ve heard they offer great margaritas but with jet lag and an early flight, I opted for a tasty aguas frescas.

We went late on a quite weeknight and had no problems getting a table, but it’s normally wise to book a table.

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From the week of February 21st, 2010

The Breslin

16 West 29th Street

For such a chic scene, The Breslin at the Ace Hotel sure boasts a gut busting, fat making menu. From pork rinds to pork bellies, there was much to drool over for us piggies, and we wound up sharing the salt and vinegar crisps and pork scratchings (rinds) to start with. Next came a rich bone marrow and onion soup for me while Jim dug into their famed lamb burger and nicely crispy steak fries.

But even as the rich and wonderful food fills you, you’ll not want to skimp on dessert. We shared a sticky toffee pudding that came in a mammoth bowl (but was totally doable split among the four of us) and a Chocolate Stout Syllabub with bubbled caramel and crème fraiche. My goodness yum!

The philosophy of the menu is not vegetarian friendly, you’ll find all sorts of nose-to-tail cooking here from pigs feet to head cheese, nor is the place friendly to taking photos as it’s so dim (but who cares with all the food to focus on), nor is it friendly to big groups and planners. It’s immensely popular but takes no reservations – we had no problem getting a private (literally, it had a curtain with which we could block out the rest of the world) booth because our dear friend Laura was a guest. BTW, her room was also adorable and well put together in the same rugged, quirky and stylish theme.

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From the week of February 7th, 2010

Moto

394 Broadway, Brooklyn

More romance can be found among the trash-stuffed-pillars, fried chickenries and noisy dollar shops underneath the roaring JMZ track than one might ever expect at the cozy, Europeanesque Moto. It’s been ages since I headed down there for their impressive menu, jazz and hand cobbled together ambiance, and delicious desserts (years ago I praised their grilled donuts).

We ordered cappuccinos, despite a strong curiosity (particularly on my part) of the breakfast beer listed on the menu (Guinness plus espresso) which, unlike angry reports on Yelp, did not take forever to arrive at our table. Moto’s weekend brunch offers much to choose from and we were both very happy with our entrees: ham and cheese baked eggs for Jim and a fresh Turkish breakfast with olives, figs, tomatoes, cucumber, feta, and soppressata for me.

The real highlight of our meal was the warm date cake with toffee sauce and whipped cream; it was absolutely heavenly and is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes (it’s even on the menu at all meal times). Order it!

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From the week of January 24th, 2010

Shanghai Cafe

100 Mott St

The service at Shanghai Café was so hostilely brisk and gruff that I almost felt honored to be seated in our tough little lady’s section. The place isn’t much for ambiance either, unless you feel comforted by the fact that your Formica table is lined (and protected?) with duct tape, but really what does ambiance matter when the perfected delicacy of a soup dumpling is there for the eating? Joe’s Shanghai is probably the better known purveyor of the messy dumplings of deliciousness, but I’d really have to eat the two side by side to decide which is better. Both are crave worthy (read: I want them right now!).

We inhaled two orders of the soup dumpling both crab and crab-less – which had the table divided – I prefer the crab, but its flavor is very pronounced and others, who may not have a palette for the briny sea, liked the all-pork incarnation better. We also ordered won-tons in spicy schezuan sauce (peanuty and spicy), eggplant with garlic sauce, and bean curb schezuan style. Unlike some hole in the wall spots, all the dishes had a distinct flavor.

Pair it all with good friends and a couple of cold Tsingtaos and you get one of those meals that can make you so happy to live in a city that hides so much good food in its quiet corners.

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From the week of January 10th, 2010

Barcelona Round Up

barcelona restaurantsButtery Ham, Anchovies, and Squid

We traveled to Barcelona primarily for the spectacular food and we were not disappointed. Our first night in town we went to Tapac 24, a bright and bustling tapas spot in the L’eixample, where we actually had the best meal of the entire trip. An menu filled with the letter ‘x’ only confused me and left me realizing that I really didn’t know Spanish at all, so we took suggestions from the moderately patient waiter and pointed to words that looked promising. We started with ink dyed fried calimari, it was delectably tender and crunchy, like fresh onion rings of the sea. Really incredible. Wonderful lightly salted and fried artichokes came next followed by flavorful chicken croquettes and a daringly ordered bull tail. The latter was a rich, meaty dish much like a fragrant oxtail. A nice bottle of cava accompanied our fully satisfying meal and I’d strongly recommend you make your way to this underground spot if you visit the city.

Breakfast brought more adventure and deliciousness with Mantequeria Ravell, a bodega store front which hides a secret breakfast dining room that you access by walking through the kitchen and then up a flight of stairs. It feels like a well kept secret (even though we found it in a tour guide) and the complete lack of English spoken only adds to the exotic experience. And exotic it is, for where else have I been faced with a menu containing a foie gras and eggs dish? Oh, this is decadent living, friends and I savored every bite, except for the ones I gave over to Jim in order to make it through the day without going into a foie gras induced nap. Fresh squeezed orange juice and a large window overlooking apartment gardens were lovely accompaniments.

After a day of uphill walking we deserved to indulge again and did so at one of the city’s most popular tapas and cerveza meccas, Ciudad Condal. You can expect a long line of locals and tourists, but it moves quickly and is worth waiting in. Here we had what seemed to my American sensibility like the most typical tapas: the Iberian ham was like butter and came with the traditional bread with a slight smattering of tomatoes. My boss highly recommended I take the opportunity to eat fried small peppers, and here they were excellent. Creamy manchego, fried anchovies, crisp asparagus, and tuna stuffed red peppers (all great) rounded out the mini feast and cold cervezas washed it all down…

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From the week of December 20th, 2009

Totonno’s

totonno's462 2nd Ave

Totonno’s is one of those weird New York restaurants in a weird New York block that makes you feel like you could be almost anywhere in the United States – it’s generic, but kind of comforting too. The table cloths are checkered and a wee bit worn, the TVs are glowing (oddly with ads for their own restaurant), and the Bud Light is flowing.

The pizza, a large margarita, was simple and yummy. While pizza has had somewhat of another renaissance with more sophisticated pies in the past few years, Totonno’s still has a place in the list of ones to try with its crunchy crust and chewy, minimal middle. Now you can enjoy the fresh mozzarella and cheesy goodness in the glow of Christmas and Hanukkah lights that adorn the walls.

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From the week of December 6th, 2009

Baoguette Cafe

Baoguette Cafe37 St Mark’s Place (between 2nd Ave & 1st Ave)

While sitting down to write an essay about my favorite sandwich has me feeling a smidge like Liz Lemon, banh mi (a French/Vietnamese sandwich served on a baguette stuffed with pickled carrots, cucumbers, cilantro, chile peppers, pate, mayonnaise and more) is something I love so much that I honestly don’t care if I’m betraying a deal-breaking character quality (I’ve already written about Phish – twice this week…).

I’ve long been a fan of Vietnam Banh Mi So 1 on Broome Street and Nicky’s on 2nd Avenue, so when Silent H opened its doors on Berry Street and banh mi became available locally, I was totally psyched. Sadly, the price, service and hours they chose to serve sandwiches during (weekdays noon to 4), made me less than happy…

Recently, An Nhau’s banh mi shop on Bedford and North 7th has changed my life (I must eat at least one meatball sandwich a week). The sandwiches are cheap, delicious and prepared in about three minutes, but when Brittany and I were out in the EV a few nights ago, we grabbed dinner at Baoguette Cafe.

I automatically ordered the classic #1 banh mi sandwich (pork terine, pate, pulled pork, fresh herbs) and it was amazing – but totally heavy duty, I was actually having a hard time finishing (the pulled pork is no joke) – and Brittany totally scored with beef vermicelli noodles (the waitress recommended the beef over the chicken bun dish).

We got to the restaurant at around 6:45 and it was gloriously devoid of any other diners, but by 7:15 dudes were beginning to pack the tiny interior – so go early!

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From the week of November 22nd, 2009

Il Buco

il buco47 Bond Street

Il Buco would be worth the price of admission just for the cozy and romantic décor. We were tucked away in the much quieter cellar (upstairs is vibrant and noisy) next to racks of wine, dried wildflowers, copper and brick. It was so dark that it was next to impossible to capture many photos, but I grabbed a few from their site to give you a better idea.

Fortunately, the food rivals the atmosphere. No wonder this family run hot spot is perpetually packed and has remained a local favorite and staple for romantic meals for over a decade.

While I’m sure you can hardly go wrong with the menu, we made excellent selections by sharing the beef carpaccio, the octopus with potatoes, and the beets. We also shared a tasty wide pasta and mushroom special entree. Caramel gelato and pineapple sorbet finished the meal perfectly.

The staff is friendly and accommodating, making us feel especially taken care of. And our bus boy was excited to inform me that they are now open for lunch with great paninis. Can’t wait to try them.

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From the week of November 9th, 2009

La Bella Mariella II (Worst Restaurant)

This is a truly heartbreaking story. Once, not too long ago, a miraculous thing happened – an ugly menu for a pizza joint called Vinnie Vella's (adorned with an illustration that practically begged for low expectations) arrived on our doorstep and, surprisingly enough, their 'Grandma's Pie' (fresh ingredients atop a perfectly thin/thick crust) turned out to be absolutely delicious. Furthermore, VV's actually delivered to our neighborhood (I'll never forgive you for forsaking Greenpoint, Fornino).

Then one day we called up (the number was actually in Jim's phone – no longer) and ordered the usual. The place had a different name, but they assured us the menu was the same; we had no idea to what degree our lives were about the change for the worse. The delivery was late, we were starving, but what was in the box – ugh – we couldn't even bring ourselves to try more than half a slice each.

Nice job La Bella Mariella II, you ruined a beautiful thing with your gloppy cheap cheese and overly sweet canned tomato sauce you try to pass off as belonging on a pizza (PS: the photos on their site are totally inaccurate). I'm truly ashamed to admit it, but we actually threw away almost an entire pizza.

You will never be forgiven and I hope you perish the way of Better Fellas (the short lived shop that set up in the same location between Vinnie Vella's and Bella Mariella II).

Souen is really lucky, by the way, that I was so crushed by this pizza shop debacle and spared them the wrath of a lengthy tirade because their vegan dirt food made me sad while I was eating it and mad to be paying obscene amounts for it.

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From the week of February 28th, 2010

Umami Burger

4655 Hollywood Blvd

It was a couple days into my LA trip before I had a truly notable meal. After a long and impossible wait among underage drinkers at Alegria, we left in defeat and moseyed on over to Umami Burger, the home of burgers with a unique flavor that’s a little hard to describe but wildly yummy and memorable. Not surprisingly, I’ve learned that flavor is called “umami”.

Umami is the fifth basic taste that was discovered by the premiere chef in France of the late 1800’s Auguste Escoffier. Here is an NPR story all about it.

But back to the burger joint in Los Feliz: it’s delicious. My Socal was perfect with its lettuce, oven dried tomatoes, caramelized onions, “spread” and cheese and my tempura onion rings were crispy and addictive. The meal was filling and the spot boasts an excellent beer menu and a heated outdoor dining area. The only problem? the hostess was a complete eye-rolling witch. Really weird and uncalled for, right? Good thing there was great food to make up for it.

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From the week of February 14th, 2010

Shang

187 Orchard Street

As far as I’m concerned, any place that boasts excellent hot and sour soup is worth visiting and Shang, which I tried out during restaurant week, serves up a spectacular version. While it’s easy to imagine the dissent among local foodies (“There’s nothing here that you can’t get for a fraction of the price in Chinatown!!” they’ll whine) but hey, this soup is really, really excellent and I have to say that I also loved the thick Cantonese Wok Fried Pearl Noodles – both of which were on the tasting menu.

We were less taken with the other items on the menu. The sushi was good, but not amazing, and the shrimp dumplings were a tad bland. For cocktails, I recommend the Diablo for its spicy tequila kick, though it was a touch too sweet.

The ambiance is similar to that of fancy dark hotel, which is not quite my thing, but the staff was not snotty, as one might expect, but really friendly and seemed happy to have us – and I’d be more than happy to return for another bowl of that hot and sour soup.

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From the week of January 31st, 2010

Heidelberg

1648 2nd Avenue

As you’ll soon read on this week’s website pick, Bier Hall Crawl, my dear friend Mike has taken on the challenge of eating in every German beer hall in the five boroughs. This little endeavor means all sorts of schnitzel and pretzels for me! We began with a reservation at the seventy four year old Yorkville stalwart, Heidelberg, where the beer flows freely (and sometimes in giant glass boots) and the staff dons traditional costumes.

The menu is full of traditional dishes including Schnitzel a la Holstein – which my favorite way to take a schnitzel: with a fried egg, anchovies, and capers. It was the most impressive looking dish of the night (as you can see from the photo) and it was delicious despite the egg being far too set for my taste.

I got try a less familiar German favorite (and one that my friend Astrid enjoyed as a kid with her Oompah in Austria), Liver Dumpling Soup, a belly warming treat that I doubt can be found in many restaurants today. The dumplings are essentially like a matzo ball, but with veal.

Friends enjoyed bratwurst, meatballs in mustard sauce, and fluffy giant potato pancakes. How we managed dessert is almost beyond me, but I really wouldn’t pass on the refreshing Rote Gruetze, a raspberry, cherry, strawberry compote with vanilla sauce.

If you are extra lucky, Werner will play you a tune or two on his polka-ready accordion. Great place for a group.

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From the week of January 17th, 2010

Sarabeth’s

sarabeth's green and white75 Ninth Avenue

Sarabeth’s original uptown location is a breakfast institution for some, but aside from her super yummy spreadable fruit that I’ve picked up from grocery stores, I had never partaken in a Sarabeth Levine meal. A recent visit to the Chelsea Market, a spot I always wonder why I don’t visit more often, changed all that.

The market location is small, with a couple small tables and some stools, but the flavors were big. I opted for the “Green and White”, scrambled eggs with scallions and cream cheese. It may seem like an odd combo, but trust me, drop some cream cheese and fresh scallions in your next batch of morning eggs and then try to tell me it’s not fantastic. There are several Sarabeth’s locations throughout the city.

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From the week of December 26th, 2009

JoJo

jojo pavlova
160 East 64th Street

In Jean Georges’s mini gourmet empire, Jojo is perhaps the coziest spot, nestled in a narrow brownstone in the east sixties. While a nice meal out above 14th street can occasionally be quite treacherous for a long-haired couple that, through rich people glasses, look like a pair of dangerous hipster hillbillies hell-bent on taking the family jewels, if fellow diners made side comments and gave us horrified looks, we were so engrossed in great company and good food, we certainly didn’t notice.

If you recall my raving about at the namesake restaurant, you’ll understand that it was simply impossible for us to pass up the heavenly foie gras brulee, which, served with a spiced fig compote, was every bit as amazing as I remembered. For entrees Jim and I split a venison special with pomegranate seeds and pears topped with a flavorful reduction sauce and the truffle-tastic salmon featuring brussel sprouts so good even Jim finished his, truffle mashed potatoes (with real, honest to goodness chunks of black truffle) and an incredible truffle vinaigrette… both were the kind of dishes that induce people to roll their eyes in incredulity. A lovely spritzer passion fruit and chili bourbon drink was the perfect accompaniment. For dessert, there’s nothing better than high class pavlova, one of my favorite and one of the most hard to find desserts.

Jojo was the famous Vongerichten’s first venture on his own and when it opened 18 years ago it stunned restaurant goers and critics. It’s been gussied up with a makeover since then (including velvet and candle sconces) but it’s still a go-to bistro for reliably awe inspiring dishes without too much fussiness.

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From the week of December 13th, 2009

Miranda

miranda brooklyn80 Berry Street, Brooklyn

Miranda has been around for a while now, but until recently I had steered clear. Not for any real reason, though I do recall the initial menu may have been too much on the pricey side to lure me in. That’s all changed, however, with the big bang for your buck pre-fixe menu which fills you up with three courses for a mere $25. I opted for a fresh beet and cheese salad, a spicy chicken chipotle gnocchi – which most pleasantly illustrates the restaurant’s seemingly strange but in actuality yummy Italian and Latin fusion flavor – and the coconut flan. The atmosphere is dark (so forgive the less than stellar photography) but inviting and the staff is accommodating.

I was certainly won over and plan to return during the colder nights to come as well as to try their intriguing brunch menu; creamy Polenta and Poached Eggs: wild mushrooms, tomato fonduta and Mangu and Fried Eggs:smashed sweet plantains, crumbled chorizo, pickled shallot being just a few items.

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From the week of November 29th, 2009

B&H Dairy

B&H Dairy127 2nd Avenue

If I had to name a least favorite type of food, I’d be quick to come up with diner food followed by vegetarian food, so imagine my surprise when B&H Dairy (which serves both) was so utterly delicious that I can’t wait to go back. Both diner food and vegetarian food get a bad rap because so much of it is terrible – ever tried an omelette at one of those indistinguishable diners on Long Island, or eaten at a veggie place that insists that bland is the only option?.

Of course, there are exceptions and B&H is surely one of them. The food here has heart and guts, the potato pancakes are incredibly crispy with a soft, pillowy center. The borscht is piping hot, flavorful and belly warming. The challah bread is slathered in butter and arrives handed to your table from the counter like a formidable tower of carbs. Definitely arrive hungry.

In a city that seems to be losing its Jewish storefront history, B&H has stood as a kosher mecca serving affordable and filling comfort food for over 60 years. While you may mix up the name with the giant photo/video mega store, you’d never mix up this tiny sliver of a place (about 4 two tops and a counter) and its genuine old world charms with anything so high tech and huge. It would be hard to find a place this quintessentially New York still standing in the neighborhood.

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From the week of November 15th, 2009

East Ocean Palace

east ocean palace11315 Queens Blvd, Flushing

We’ve quickly gone from dim sum newbies to the type of people that get up early on a Sunday, run to the car, and drive to the next place to try, even with a slight hangover. East Ocean Palace is a bit outside the epicenter of dim sum cuisine in Flushing, on the border of Forest Hills and Rego Park (easy to get to from the Van Wyck). For this reason, perhaps, or because we were there by 10 am, the place was less crowded than Jade Asia and slightly more pristine.

Our first lady was very helpful with explaining her dumplings and we enjoyed the typical fare of an array of shrimp, pork and chives as well as wide rice noodles with shrimp. We also tried things we didn’t have at our previous dim sum experience including a great meat speckled and leaf wrapped patty of sticky rice, minced shrimp tempura in pepper, and the best surprise of the meal – a gooey egg custard dumpling with a slightly crunchy outside. It got a thumbs up from the server and she was right.

Overall, the food was a bit fresher tasting than Jade Asian though, maybe it was the early hour, but it seemed to offer less variety. I’ve heard they have a great dinner menu that I’d like to revisit and try.

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