Places to Visit

From the week of August 29th, 2010

Pharmacia Millionaire

301 S Broadway, Downtown Los Angeles

I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to write up Pharmacia Millionaire with you guys. It was definitely one of the more unusual spots we visited in LA earlier this year. A treasure trove of magic candles, potions, elixirs and voodoo dolls, the crowded pharmacy sits across the street from the more traditional tourist spot, The Bradbury Building. We walked away with a candle for home cleansing, which once burned to the end offered some charms that we were instructed to put under our mattress. We skipped on the vagina candle and anything black magic related but might be back one day for the bat’s hearts if I can figure out a way to use them. Even if you have no plans to purchase, the iconography and design for the products are worth a peek in this surprisingly friendly shop.

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From the week of July 25th, 2010

Jacob Riis Beach

Rockaway Beach Blvd. at Channel Dr.

Jacob Riis was a fearless photographer who used muckraking tactics and his camera to enact major changes in the slums of New York City. The beach named for him is a lovely stretch of south shore sand in the Gateway National Recreation Area that is a quick drive out of the city. It’s popular with families, boom box toting kids, and an eclectic crowd of sunbathers.

One of the parks most popular attractions are the barbecue fields that were absolutely swarming with grilling sausages, bananas (what a great idea!), and burgers and large extended families making the best of the hot summer. Come early if you want to claim a spot.

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From the week of June 27th, 2010

Grand Canyon

In The Northwest Corner of Arizona

It was one a road trip from Las Vegas to Texas when Jim, Stacy and I saw the epic natural National Park, The Grand Canyon. It was not a clear, technicolor dream day like the one in the photo, but a chilly, foggy day that didn’t make the stunning site any less amazing and memorable. Unfortunately, I can’t currently find my photos from the day, but I plan to return as there is nothing parallel to the view.

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From the week of April 25th, 2010

Mummer’s Museum

1100 South 2nd Street, Philadelphia, PA

The Mummers Parade is an institution that is alive in Philadelphia if not exactly well. The South Philly Mummer’s Museum dedicated to the decades old tradition screams from posters on many walls “Save the Mummers Museum!” and the unkempt, slightly decaying exhibits give the visitor a Mrs. Havisham-esque experience of walking down magnificence past. Unusually quiet, with only a few volunteers and one other couple present, the museum is as eerie as it is fascinating. Not to say that even with the fading of social clubs as a backbone of communities that the Mummer Museum holds nothing but memories. The first set up of terminator meets He-Man like costumes are from the winners of a recent parade and videos show the costumes in action during the New Years Celebration that still takes place every year. The intricacy of ritual and the costumes themselves make me want to attend the next one and the crumbling but stunning building itself (which calls to mind the images of Kubrick) do indeed make me want to take up the cause of saving the mummers. So why do you all start by taking a visit there? It’s only $3.50 and more than worth it!

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From the week of March 21st, 2010

Griffith Park Observatory

Los Angeles, CA

Last time I visited the Griffith Observatory (years ago) it was in the middle of major renovation. Now, along the throngs of tourists (the is a very popular spot to catch views of the city), you can venture back inside again. And while we missed a show in the planetarium, we did get to see Foucault’s Pendulum and lighting manufactured by Tesla’s coil.

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From the week of January 24th, 2010

Mercat Boqueria

in Barcelona

If you’re ever in Barcelona, you absolutely must – must – visit the Mercat Boqueria. Even if, like me, you’ve spent the previous night like a scene from the Exorcist with food poisoning, you’ll want to man up, drag yourself out of bed and go.

It’s vibrant, bustling and everywhere you look is a photograph waiting to be taken. Food nerds will wander around in wonder and shiver with excitement at the wild world of edible crustaceans, the rainbow of (in my case, life saving) fruits and juices, the parade of candies and chocolates, and the miles of sweet, sweet Iberian ham.

There are spots to sit and eat at, which you might be familiar with if you watched Andrew Zimmern chow down on bull testicles during his trip, but sadly I was not quite well enough for such adventures. I could not resist the ham, though, cut straight from the leg, a culinary treat that is unparalleled. The market has, at least in some form, been around since 1217 (!) and the official structure was built in 1853.

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From the week of January 10th, 2010

Park Guell, Barcelona

park guelldesigned by Gaudi

Park Guell, designed by the inventive architect Antoni Gaudi, was originally intended to be an aristocratic housing development on the outskirts of the city but the houses never developed and the city ultimately bought the land back and turned the area into a public park; it’s one of the most spectacular places to visit in Barcelona. After a long uphill amble, we spent the better part of the day exploring the winding paths, nooks and crannies, wizard-like structures, vibrant mosaics, and gorgeous views.

We didn’t come in through the main entrance, with its tile dragon and sprawling staircase, but rather through a side passage near the terraces; a peaceful area where birds nest and there are many quiet spots to sit and enjoy the Mediterranean weather (it was in the mid sixties).

From a distance we spotted an ancient looking cross atop a nearby hill that we eventually made our way toward. This is the Turo dels Tres Creus (the Hill of the Three Crosses) a spot originally slated to host a church but now looms over town like something out of a Pasolini or Bunuel film and offers 360 degree views of the city.

There’s a main square where the public can lounge on magnificent mosaic benches and nothing is more spectacular than looking out on Gaudi’s totally sci-fi wizard tower-meets-Dr Seuss constructions; Gaudi truly transformed the city with his whimsical and wild creations and Guell is one of his crowning achievements. If you plan on going, give yourself lots of time to explore and enjoy this most beautiful park. This was one of the highlights of our recent trip.

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From the week of December 20th, 2009

Rhinebeck

rhinebeckChristmasy Charm, Gourmet Food, and Poetic Walks

I know this weekend’s storm is the first snow fall for my fellow New Yorkers, but we witnessed inches of the powdery white stuff a few weeks back while in Rhinebeck. It was a beautiful storm, but it did cause us to miss the main purpose of our visit: the Sinterklaas Parade. Fortunately, Rhinebeck had so much to offer and our B&B was so inviting, we didn’t even mind missing the main event. Plus, it just means we have a reason to return next year.

We stayed at Hideaway Suites, one of the most comfortable and excellent B&B we’ve ever slept in. The Chateau Suite offered a private deck, a fireplace (so great for the wintry nights) and a two person jacuzzi tub. Our hostess was incredibly kind and accommodating and left hot tea for us in a magical thermal container that kept water hot for hours and hours. The place struck a great balance between modern amenities and bed and breakfast charm. I highly highly recommend it, even if it is a brief and winding drive from the main town. We’ve never been so eager to return to a hotel room on any vacation.

Aside from romantic hideaway B&B’s, Rhinebeck also boasts some truly excellent food thanks to its proximity to the Culiary Institute. The first night we tried Arielle, the new kid on the block, that came with strong endorsements from two of our most picky friends. Everything was excellent – from the grilled and smoky octopus, to the expertly mixed dirty martini, from the veal scallopini to the lamb so bucco. A lemon tart finished the meal off perfectly.

The next day we ventured into the area’s most well known restaurant Terrapin, housed in a gorgeous craftsman church in the middle of town. We went during the day to the Bistro which offered great sandwiches (Jim had a sliced steak one) and small plates. We shared crispy artichokes, goat cheese wontons, garlic soup and lemongrass mussels. They also offered a drink after my own heart: a hot and dirty martini made with pickle juice and sriracha. It was heaven to drink it while watching the snow fall.

Though we missed the main parade, we still saw a few of the local celebrations for Sinterklaas (the Dutch Christmas) including street performers, street musicians, decorated windows, a cookie tree, and an illuminated book. It was a happy and quaint winter experience to be there.

Just so you don’t spend the entire time eating, drinking, and lazying around the fire, not too far from town there is the Poet’s Walk trail, a beautiful spot with gazebos, wooden and brick bridges, and lovely views of the Hudson. it was intensely blustery and freezing when we walked it, but so beautiful and peaceful, the rosy cheeks and ice cube toes were worth it.

I am sure I’ll be back to Rhinebeck sooner than later as the town offers all sorts of neat events like antique and sheep shows.

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From the week of November 22nd, 2009

Cold Spring Harbor Fish Hatchery

trout01660 Route 25A, Cold Spring Harbor, NY

As regular Long Island day trippers, we’ve been meaning to stop by the Cold Spring Harbor Trout Hatchery for some time; but only recently, on an unusually warm Saturday afternoon, did we finally get there. The set up is nice and bucolic with walkways winding around streams and ponds absolutely teeming with trout.

One area is sectioned of for fishing (if you have the inclination), other round ponds are for fish feeding – which is quite delightful (see the video below). Make sure to get a bucket of fish  food with your admission and watch the layers of fish go wild when you throw in a hand full. Little boys were going equally wild just watching.

Also on the grounds are some giant goldfish tanks, an 80 year old giant turtle (too submerged to get a decent photo of) named Tiny, and a terrarium where Jim and I had tons of fun photographing bug eyed frogs and turtles. Also housed inside is a massive taxidermy snapping turtle that had lived at the hatchery until he was stolen (presumably part of a teenage prank), later returned, then died a few weeks later.

Unfortunately, we didn’t notice the aquarium until we were pulling out of the parking lot, but it’s such a short drive that we’ll surely return soon.

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From the week of August 8th, 2010

Nettle Meadow Farm

Thurman, NY – Guest Written by Mike Stermer

Hidden away on a rural route in the Adirondacks, Nettle Meadow is an idealist goat farm.  Founded 5 years ago by a couple in the midst of mid life crisis, Nettle Meadow is farming at it’s best.  Not only do each of their 300 goats have names, but Lorraine, one of the co-owners who gave us a free tour, knows each and every one of their names.  The goats, along with their sheep neighbors, all lend their milk to their artisan cheeses made on the farm.  They make several varieties.  The flavored chevres that we tasted were only two days old, fresh from the goats.  They even have 3 varieties of ages cheeses, aged in the 200 year old stone basement of the farm house.  Their “Kunik” is a not to be missed semi-aged cheese with a super creamy texture.

It’s really nice to see a small family owned farm doing things with care, and worrying about quality and not quantity.  The goats are all treated quiet well.  Unlike many other farms they allow their goats to naturally grow their horns out. In the back of the farm they have 7 acres of free range roughage to roam through.  The largest and oldest of the barns they use as a sanctuary for rescue animals including a thoroughbred horse with an injured leg, cow calves, chickens, roosters, ducks and even a peacock. They even use llamas as sheep dogs to help the keep away the wilds.
Of course their cheeses can be found at local restaurants in the Lake George, but they also venture out much future than that.  NYC’s Murray’s cheese as well as many local eateries carry lines of their cheese as well.  So if you can’t make it up there for a Saturday or Sunday free tour at noon, be sure to search out some of their cheese and taste farm food done right.

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From the week of July 18th, 2010

Ludlow Lakeside Rental

Vermont Tranquility

As native Vermonter and dear friend Stacy told me, being in Vermont is all about a state of mind, not doing things. Considering that we were game for a full week of peaceful, pre-baby relaxation, nothing could have been better. Sure there are places to explore and activities to partake in (such as the Shelburne Farms, where we bought some incredible cloth bound cheese but were too late for tours) but mostly, with a view like the one we had, it was all about lounging lake side, taking in the trees and the breeze. Our rental house was on Rescue Lake in the town of Ludlow. It’s a tiny town, but there’s a Shaw’s for all you need to make your own meals, a cute spot for breakfast called The Hatchery, and, while we were not happy to have to find out, an extremely friendly Chevy dealership that was able to fix our car after it freaked out within hours.

The house itself, which we found on cyberrentals was clean, well appointment, comfy and perfectly located with a private dock and hot tub that we took full advantage of. It’s large enough to share with another couple with a second bedroom and the owners, who live next door are un-invasive but there to help if you need them. We spent full days on the dock, making friends with an adorable family of ducks. It was such a simple joy and one I could never experience in the city. As another reminder that we were far from the streets of Brooklyn, as if we needed one, the local paper declared the city’s biggest wedding – between a teddy bear and a rag doll.

While the house, with it’s view and amenities offered so much relaxation, we did venture out sometimes. Nearby are the gorgeous Buttermilk Falls, a winding park featuring several swimming holes and falls under green shade. It was empty early in the morning, but later in the season – when you can actually go into the water, it’s a favorite local attraction. We also took the scenic drive up Okemo Mountain, the nearby ski resort that looks like a 1960s abandoned space station in the summertime. I am a tad embarassed to say I was too lazy (and pregnant) to take the trail to the top, but am sure the views would have been worth it otherwise.

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From the week of May 23rd, 2010

Clarence Fahnestock State Park

Rte 301, Carmel NY 10512

While Jim and I wimped out and only opted for day camping (a four month pregnant belly and ground sleeping don’t equal happiness), I must say the Clarence Fahnestock State Park is a lovely spot to get in tune with nature, build a comforting and perfect smelling wood fire, throw hot dogs (in this case, incredible ones from Schaller and Weber) on the grill, laugh with friends, and roast some mega sized marshmallows.

While eating and relaxing under a canopy of high trees plus a few games of bocce ball was about all we took part in, the nearby State Park (only about an hour and twenty minute drive in regular traffic) offers lots of hiking trails, and ponds for canoeing. Our camp mates even found some caves on a short hike nearby the camp site. Unlike the better known Bear Mountain across the river, here beer is welcome (of course so long as you are respectful and clean up after yourself). Once I am in more rugged mode, this would be a great place to return to for a couple nights of real, if not too tough (other campers are within shouting distance, the highway’s only a short ride away and running water bathrooms are available nearby) nights of roughing it in the kind-of wild.

Stop by Stew Leonards on the way up for provisions, make sure to bring along someone as handy with a tiny stove and a dutch oven as our friend Mike (who made a kicked up chicken chili verde and a blueberry cobbler with little more than a knife and ingredients) and make sure to pack some seats (which was the one of the only comforts we forgot).

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From the week of April 18th, 2010

Natural History Museum, LA

900 Exposition Blvd. Los Angeles, CA

It’s taken me awhile to get this entry together because I took so many photos at the Los Angeles Natural History Museum, about 50 or so can be seen below/after the jump. Since a photo is worth a thousand words, I’ll keep it brief.

The museum, even though it may not rank as a must-see among locals (none have ever mention it to me), boasts the best of the museum world: A. animal dioramas; B. dinosaur bones; and C. a killer gem room (mmmm gem rooms….).

If you find yourself in the city on a rainy day – and every time I go I get at least one of those – this is a prefect distraction.

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From the week of February 28th, 2010

The Museum of Jurassic Technology

9341 Venice Boulevard, Los Angeles

The Museum of Jurassic Technology is by far the strangest museum I’ve ever been to and was the top thing on my to-do list after missing out on it on my last visit to LA. It’s so unusual that I can’t really explain it to you but I can tell you that it’s got nothing to do with dinosaur machines. Dark and winding, the quiet two floor space contains everything from Hagop Sandaldjian’s Goofy sculpture the size of a needle head to a collection of Decaying Dice from Ricky Jay.

My favorite section may have been the one about various old wives tales and superstitions complete with dioramas of mice on toast, children’s hand growing hair and a man kissing a goose. I was also pretty taken with Athanasius Kircher’s confounding but beautiful creations and where else can you walk into a velvet room and be confronted with large oil portraits of Soviet Space Dogs. There are trailer park models, more art that needs to be viewed through a microscope (the pretty but pretty insane work of Henry Dalton) and a myriad of other things that I could barely even wrap my head around. It was tough to get too many photos with the low light, but there’s enough below/after the jump to intrigue you to make your own visit.

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From the week of January 17th, 2010

Figueres

dali figueresHome of the Salvador Dali Museum

Figueres is about a two hour train ride from Barcelona, through landscapes that are in turn industrial, rural, urban, vineyardy before finally stopping at the little town Salvador Dali put on the map. It’s a short walk from the station to the eye popping museum, but not well marked, so we foolishly took a cab about three blocks.

The museum, Dali’s former home, is as wild as you can imagine from the outside, and I can only really do it justice by asking you to take a look at the photos we took (though, they are no substitution for actually being there either!).

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From the week of December 26th, 2009

Georgia Aquarium

P1000407
in Atlanta

Whale sharks, cuddle fish, glowing jellyfish, and other glimpses into a fantastical underwater world – plus champagne! There are far worse places one could celebrate the end of a work year. We had our company dinner at the pride of Atlanta, the humongous (it actually houses a whale – but, sadly, he was out on loan when we were there) and lovely Georgia Aquarium.

After the buffet and raw bar we were able to wander the exhibits which amazed us all. I managed (thanks to my new spiffy camera) to capture many of the interesting creatures we saw in the state-of-the-art facility; I’ve never sipped a martini in front of anything more fascinating.

According to locals, the place can become a madhouse during regular, children-filled hours, but I’d brave a dozen 5th grade class field trips to go back to see the exhibits we missed (sea otters, penguins, and something called the 4D Theater) as well as that famous beluga whale.

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From the week of December 13th, 2009

Mini Food Tour of Atlanta

repast atlantaBiscuits, Crab Cakes, Nuggets and Room Service

I was hoping to offer more insider tips on Atlanta’s entertainment, shopping and sites of note, but a busy work schedule left me no time for any of that (no worries: an upcoming trip will provide plenty) so instead I’m offering this mini food tour of the city.

Repast is a lovely, modern place that features an intriguing menu. Our table shared bacon wrapped dates, roasted beets, salmon tartare, and crab cakes before swooning over entrees. I opted for the free range chicken with kale, gnocchi, pancetta and black truffle jus and benefited from the kindness of my co-eaters with a bite of an incredible pork belly.

The next night, we revisited a place I ate at a while ago on another business trip, South City Kitchen, which has lost none of its tastiness in the interim. Pimento cheese, fried green tomatoes, and mac and cheese were shared with gusto and my salmon with spaghetti squash, home made mascarpone, pomegranate and watercress was great.

Also, and I’m stating the obvious here, Chick-Fil-A f-ing rules (I ate it both for breakfast and lunch one day in a feat of impressive gluttony) and the Four Seasons is a pretty nice place to stay (they also offer a nice array of small plates in their lounge as well as crazy dolled up specialty cocktails).

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