in Barcelona

If you’re ever in Barcelona, you absolutely must – must – visit the Mercat Boqueria. Even if, like me, you’ve spent the previous night like a scene from the Exorcist with food poisoning, you’ll want to man up, drag yourself out of bed and go.

It’s vibrant, bustling and everywhere you look is a photograph waiting to be taken. Food nerds will wander around in wonder and shiver with excitement at the wild world of edible crustaceans, the rainbow of (in my case, life saving) fruits and juices, the parade of candies and chocolates, and the miles of sweet, sweet Iberian ham.

There are spots to sit and eat at, which you might be familiar with if you watched Andrew Zimmern chow down on bull testicles during his trip, but sadly I was not quite well enough for such adventures. I could not resist the ham, though, cut straight from the leg, a culinary treat that is unparalleled. The market has, at least in some form, been around since 1217 (!) and the official structure was built in 1853.

Click here to see the rest of Mercat Boqueria

designed by Gaudi

Park Guell, designed by the inventive architect Antoni Gaudi, was originally intended to be an aristocratic housing development on the outskirts of the city but the houses never developed and the city ultimately bought the land back and turned the area into a public park; it’s one of the most spectacular places to visit in Barcelona. After a long uphill amble, we spent the better part of the day exploring the winding paths, nooks and crannies, wizard-like structures, vibrant mosaics, and gorgeous views.

We didn’t come in through the main entrance, with its tile dragon and sprawling staircase, but rather through a side passage near the terraces; a peaceful area where birds nest and there are many quiet spots to sit and enjoy the Mediterranean weather (it was in the mid sixties).

From a distance we spotted an ancient looking cross atop a nearby hill that we eventually made our way toward. This is the Turo dels Tres Creus (the Hill of the Three Crosses) a spot originally slated to host a church but now looms over town like something out of a Pasolini or Bunuel film and offers 360 degree views of the city.

There’s a main square where the public can lounge on magnificent mosaic benches and nothing is more spectacular than looking out on Gaudi’s totally sci-fi wizard tower-meets-Dr Seuss constructions; Gaudi truly transformed the city with his whimsical and wild creations and Guell is one of his crowning achievements. If you plan on going, give yourself lots of time to explore and enjoy this most beautiful park. This was one of the highlights of our recent trip.

Click here to see the rest of Park Guell, Barcelona

Christmasy Charm, Gourmet Food, and Poetic Walks

I know this weekend’s storm is the first snow fall for my fellow New Yorkers, but we witnessed inches of the powdery white stuff a few weeks back while in Rhinebeck. It was a beautiful storm, but it did cause us to miss the main purpose of our visit: the Sinterklaas Parade. Fortunately, Rhinebeck had so much to offer and our B&B was so inviting, we didn’t even mind missing the main event. Plus, it just means we have a reason to return next year.

We stayed at Hideaway Suites, one of the most comfortable and excellent B&B we’ve ever slept in. The Chateau Suite offered a private deck, a fireplace (so great for the wintry nights) and a two person jacuzzi tub. Our hostess was incredibly kind and accommodating and left hot tea for us in a magical thermal container that kept water hot for hours and hours. The place struck a great balance between modern amenities and bed and breakfast charm. I highly highly recommend it, even if it is a brief and winding drive from the main town. We’ve never been so eager to return to a hotel room on any vacation.

Aside from romantic hideaway B&B’s, Rhinebeck also boasts some truly excellent food thanks to its proximity to the Culiary Institute. The first night we tried Arielle, the new kid on the block, that came with strong endorsements from two of our most picky friends. Everything was excellent – from the grilled and smoky octopus, to the expertly mixed dirty martini, from the veal scallopini to the lamb so bucco. A lemon tart finished the meal off perfectly.

The next day we ventured into the area’s most well known restaurant Terrapin, housed in a gorgeous craftsman church in the middle of town. We went during the day to the Bistro which offered great sandwiches (Jim had a sliced steak one) and small plates. We shared crispy artichokes, goat cheese wontons, garlic soup and lemongrass mussels. They also offered a drink after my own heart: a hot and dirty martini made with pickle juice and sriracha. It was heaven to drink it while watching the snow fall.

Though we missed the main parade, we still saw a few of the local celebrations for Sinterklaas (the Dutch Christmas) including street performers, street musicians, decorated windows, a cookie tree, and an illuminated book. It was a happy and quaint winter experience to be there.

Just so you don’t spend the entire time eating, drinking, and lazying around the fire, not too far from town there is the Poet’s Walk trail, a beautiful spot with gazebos, wooden and brick bridges, and lovely views of the Hudson. it was intensely blustery and freezing when we walked it, but so beautiful and peaceful, the rosy cheeks and ice cube toes were worth it.

I am sure I’ll be back to Rhinebeck sooner than later as the town offers all sorts of neat events like antique and sheep shows.

Click here to see the rest of Rhinebeck

1660 Route 25A, Cold Spring Harbor, NY

As regular Long Island day trippers, we’ve been meaning to stop by the Cold Spring Harbor Trout Hatchery for some time; but only recently, on an unusually warm Saturday afternoon, did we finally get there. The set up is nice and bucolic with walkways winding around streams and ponds absolutely teeming with trout.

One area is sectioned of for fishing (if you have the inclination), other round ponds are for fish feeding – which is quite delightful (see the video below). Make sure to get a bucket of fish  food with your admission and watch the layers of fish go wild when you throw in a hand full. Little boys were going equally wild just watching.

Also on the grounds are some giant goldfish tanks, an 80 year old giant turtle (too submerged to get a decent photo of) named Tiny, and a terrarium where Jim and I had tons of fun photographing bug eyed frogs and turtles. Also housed inside is a massive taxidermy snapping turtle that had lived at the hatchery until he was stolen (presumably part of a teenage prank), later returned, then died a few weeks later.

Unfortunately, we didn’t notice the aquarium until we were pulling out of the parking lot, but it’s such a short drive that we’ll surely return soon.

Click here to see the rest of Cold Spring Harbor Fish Hatchery

This pick comes from the week of February 23rd

Our main objective in London was to shop, and shop we did, starting with the famous Portobello Market in Notting Hill. It was a crowded stretch of road with vendors of all kinds, mot notably lots of cheap and trendy clothes (I finally found a plaid jacket inspired by Tokyo Drifter) and some good vintage once you cross under the bridge. Nearby children's clothing shops Stasi and Jigsaw were great for work. It's a lovely area to walk around with quaint buildings and antiques and fresh flowers peering out of windows.

Soho was much less quaint, a bustling center that reminded me of midtown and houses the colossal four story Topshop (soon to be causing mayhem in NYC). The place is a madhouse sea of intimidating head to toe trendy teens throwing hangers and grabbing sizes before you can reach for them. Not a spot for those prone to panic attacks, it is still worth a look for it's fun and exciting trends that are sold at comparatively reasonable prices.

For relative calm we headed to the exquisite concept store Dover Street Market, where even a pair of socks was out of my price range. Amazing designer clothing like Commes des Garcons and Manish Arora set among interesting displays of wax heads, neon tree branches, and giant plastic octopuses. It's more like a museum of avant garde design than a retail shop.

The next day got up early for the Brick Lane Market that reminded me of Brooklyn and bore great handmade t-shirts, spray painted shoes, beautiful people watching and excellent food (see restaurant picks). Nearby Beyond Retro, Shelf, Labour and Wait, Ella Doran and Mar Mar are worth visiting.

I really fell in love with London and hope to visit again when I can. Part of the magic was the comforts afforded by the great hotel No. 11 Cadogan Gardens in beautiful Chelsea and seeing my friend and her adorable baby again. It's the only city outside New York I could see myself living in.

RUNNERS UP:
Paris
Brimfield
Lake George
Crescent Beach
Vanderbilt Mansion and Planetarium
Twin Island

Weather thwarted all my planned beach days this summer, but I was determined last weekend to spend part of the last warm-ish day of the year near the ocean. After dropping off a bud at JFK, the Rockaway boardwalk was the most convenient place to take in a little salt air and, for a moment at least, relaxed by the sound of the waves crashing to shore.

It was too cold to actually go in the water, unless you were one of the brave surfers out there, but it's a peaceful place to stroll. Not much in way of snack and shopping in the nearby area, but there is a pretty sweet skateboarding park filled with hip little kids.

Special thanks to Ashleigh, for writing this post!

Every one knows the “forty whacks” story of the Borden family murders.?Lizzie Borden was acquitted, but ask any vox pop, and you will be assured of her incontrovertible guilt.?Now, thanks to the Lizzie Borden LLC, you can visit the actual crime scene, look at photographic evidence, witness a live reenactment, and decide for yourself.

Located in Fall River, the tomb of what was once one of the leading textile producers in the world, the Borden family house has been restored to its Victorian-era splendor and is open to the public.?Tours are given daily from 11:00-3:00 and many special events such as crime and trial reenactments by the Pear Essential Players are scheduled throughout the year.?Red Hatters are welcome for “Tea & Murder”!

The museum also doubles as a bed & breakfast.?You can rest your head and test your nerve in the room where Abby Durfee Borden was hatcheted to death.?The rooms are beautifully appointed in antique Queen Anne furniture, though the pieces are not original to the Borden family.?In case you get too comfortable lounging on the feather duvet, there is a large photograph on the nightstand of Mrs. Borden lying prostrate on the carpet, skull caved-in, gore abounding, in the very spot where you left your slippers before climbing into bed.

If you are ever in the Boston or Providence area, this place is well worth the 20-40 min ride.?The all-female staff of docents are wonderfully cheerful, exceedingly knowledgeable, and always dressed in sunshine and springtime-colored track suits.?There is a well-stocked gift shop where one can purchase Lizzie bobble-heads, hatchet earrings, and other essential Goth accouterments.?(By the way, Fall River is amazing.?You have not seen the real New England until you've driven over the Braga Bridge at dusk.)

Ashleigh put up this great post on RC.

Logee's Greenhouse in Danielson, CT is one of the most magical places on the East Coast, maybe Earth. Here's what they say about themselves, all true:

Since 1892, the Logee-Martin family has been growing and selling over a thousand varieties of tropical container plants for home and garden. We are the exclusive source of many varieties, both heirloom and new introductions. Cross the threshold of our greenhouses and prepare to enter into another world. Hear the trickling sounds of the water garden, see lemons the size of grapefruits on the 108 year-old Ponderosa Lemon Tree, then take a deep breath of divinely fragrant air as you meander through lush vegetation. Whether you're shopping for beautiful plants or just have a desire to surround yourself in beauty, come to Logee's, we promise it's worth the trip.”

If you are ever in the area, don't pass through without visiting Logee's. It really is a special place.